More Thoughts On Painting From An Old Timer
Popping back to my post on painting the other day, I was asked which brushes from the Rosemary & Co ranges I used.
Well, I have been using them for around 10 years or more now and my weapons of choice are brushes from the 92, 401 and 768 series. The 92s are ultra fine, the 401s are my workhorse on 28mm stuff and the 768s are flat brushes which get some real abuse over a working year.
I was also asked how I thought I could comment on paints in the way I did...
Well let me see:
My work has been used on Spartan & Mantic products, I have appeared on Discovery Channel and on the covers of War-games Illustrated and War-games Journal as well as bagging almost two dozen placings in competitions across the U.K until I withdrew from competition painting in the mid-90s after I was bringing home the trophies in a rucksack from Salute.
So, I have used a LOT of paint over the last 4 decades and have also been lucky enough to have access to some of the finest brushes of the golden age.
But that is not my point here. I have recently watched a video or two and browsed the odd forum, and I have been amused to see terms such as 'cartoon style' and questions from new painters on some really weird combinations of mediums.
On the matter of the cartoon style, then let me point out that this is not as some online experts are claiming a new and exciting way of painting. It was being used way back in the dark ages and was called black lining. It's nothing special, it's a pretty rudimentary (but very effective) style.
It has been common in historical wargaming circles but less so since the late 80s in fantasy gaming since a certain company set itself up as the last word in aesthetics when it comes to painting, pimping it's own product lines to the masses.
I am fortunate enough to own a fair number of figures from the collection of the late Joe Dever, who used a mix of strong colours and black lines, and they look smashing, the paint style accentuating the old school sculpting.
Tony Yates, an old hand has used this style for years, long before many of these new pioneers were born.
Now, here is some age advice for new painters...
When you first start, buy a few good brushes, a colour wheel and a basic set of reliable paints in the basic shades, along with black, white and few metallics.
Learn to mix colours from those few shades and learn how your brushes feel in your hand. Over time, good brushes will shape you your hand.
Go to an art shop, not a craft superstore, but find out where the local student population or art clubs go, and go there. Ask questions, don't be shy... They are there to sell you stuff yes, but they will generally also have a lot of practical knowledge.
I don't care who you are, or how many paints you have (I have around 500, thank you for asking) all that is going to improve your painting is practice, self confidence and knowledge of the materials and paint types (mediums).
Learn the difference between oil and water paints. Oil paint are not automatically to be ruled out on the grounds that they dry slowly, because what you use to dilute the paints (turps, linseed, white spirit) will affect the drying time.
I will state for the record here, that a lot of the advice I have seen on miniature painting forums is laughable and to be ignored.
I would guess that 85-90% of figure painters have never set foot in a serious art shop. Don't copy that trend - Get off your arse, swallow your pride and go and visit one. They will thank you for your custom and you will find a whole new world of materials.
But that said, I reiterate that practice and confidence are the most important things rather than buying a full set of paints on day one. That way madness and penury lie.
I have 500 or so paints, but that is because I have a wide range of clients with different needs, and as a professional it behooves me to have access to all the mediums required to facilitate the satisfaction of those clients.
Which reminds me - lighting
Buy a good light.
Buy the largest and best you can afford, in fact, spend the money you saved by buying less paints on a top quality light. Your eyes are irreplaceable.
I could tell you some horror stories of painting by street light, or in shaded nooks, but I will spare you.
I use 3 of these in my own studio:
The Daylight Task Lamp (DN1190) is a serious lamp. It uses LEDs, which are dimmable and the head is about 20 inches across. It fastens to your table and at around £120 will be the best investment you make.
Stay away from the traditional bulbed Daylight lamps as they are poor by comparison and despite claims of bulb longevity, will need replacing. I have personally killed 3 of those older lamps.
Take a look at Heamar.co.uk
Finally, I invested in a full set of Daler Rowney FW acrylic inks yesterday. These are being vaunted as the best thing since sliced bread by figure painters. They are certainly very good, and I will be using them instead of Contrast Paints. You can get them at around £4 for a 30ml jar with pipette and they will go a long way. Be warned that they will need diluting for washing and glazing, because they are strong, strong pigments.
I've played with them sometimes in the past, and with practice and skill they are an offensive weapon .
Remember that practice and familiarity are still the true keys. Become confident and establish a personal style that you like and to hell with the rest. There is no 'industry standard' for artistic styles despite what some arseholes would have you believe.
Well, I have been using them for around 10 years or more now and my weapons of choice are brushes from the 92, 401 and 768 series. The 92s are ultra fine, the 401s are my workhorse on 28mm stuff and the 768s are flat brushes which get some real abuse over a working year.
I was also asked how I thought I could comment on paints in the way I did...
Well let me see:
My work has been used on Spartan & Mantic products, I have appeared on Discovery Channel and on the covers of War-games Illustrated and War-games Journal as well as bagging almost two dozen placings in competitions across the U.K until I withdrew from competition painting in the mid-90s after I was bringing home the trophies in a rucksack from Salute.
So, I have used a LOT of paint over the last 4 decades and have also been lucky enough to have access to some of the finest brushes of the golden age.
But that is not my point here. I have recently watched a video or two and browsed the odd forum, and I have been amused to see terms such as 'cartoon style' and questions from new painters on some really weird combinations of mediums.
On the matter of the cartoon style, then let me point out that this is not as some online experts are claiming a new and exciting way of painting. It was being used way back in the dark ages and was called black lining. It's nothing special, it's a pretty rudimentary (but very effective) style.
It has been common in historical wargaming circles but less so since the late 80s in fantasy gaming since a certain company set itself up as the last word in aesthetics when it comes to painting, pimping it's own product lines to the masses.
I am fortunate enough to own a fair number of figures from the collection of the late Joe Dever, who used a mix of strong colours and black lines, and they look smashing, the paint style accentuating the old school sculpting.
Tony Yates, an old hand has used this style for years, long before many of these new pioneers were born.
Now, here is some age advice for new painters...
When you first start, buy a few good brushes, a colour wheel and a basic set of reliable paints in the basic shades, along with black, white and few metallics.
Learn to mix colours from those few shades and learn how your brushes feel in your hand. Over time, good brushes will shape you your hand.
Go to an art shop, not a craft superstore, but find out where the local student population or art clubs go, and go there. Ask questions, don't be shy... They are there to sell you stuff yes, but they will generally also have a lot of practical knowledge.
I don't care who you are, or how many paints you have (I have around 500, thank you for asking) all that is going to improve your painting is practice, self confidence and knowledge of the materials and paint types (mediums).
Learn the difference between oil and water paints. Oil paint are not automatically to be ruled out on the grounds that they dry slowly, because what you use to dilute the paints (turps, linseed, white spirit) will affect the drying time.
I will state for the record here, that a lot of the advice I have seen on miniature painting forums is laughable and to be ignored.
I would guess that 85-90% of figure painters have never set foot in a serious art shop. Don't copy that trend - Get off your arse, swallow your pride and go and visit one. They will thank you for your custom and you will find a whole new world of materials.
But that said, I reiterate that practice and confidence are the most important things rather than buying a full set of paints on day one. That way madness and penury lie.
I have 500 or so paints, but that is because I have a wide range of clients with different needs, and as a professional it behooves me to have access to all the mediums required to facilitate the satisfaction of those clients.
Which reminds me - lighting
Buy a good light.
Buy the largest and best you can afford, in fact, spend the money you saved by buying less paints on a top quality light. Your eyes are irreplaceable.
I could tell you some horror stories of painting by street light, or in shaded nooks, but I will spare you.
I use 3 of these in my own studio:
The Daylight Task Lamp (DN1190) is a serious lamp. It uses LEDs, which are dimmable and the head is about 20 inches across. It fastens to your table and at around £120 will be the best investment you make.
Stay away from the traditional bulbed Daylight lamps as they are poor by comparison and despite claims of bulb longevity, will need replacing. I have personally killed 3 of those older lamps.
Take a look at Heamar.co.uk
Finally, I invested in a full set of Daler Rowney FW acrylic inks yesterday. These are being vaunted as the best thing since sliced bread by figure painters. They are certainly very good, and I will be using them instead of Contrast Paints. You can get them at around £4 for a 30ml jar with pipette and they will go a long way. Be warned that they will need diluting for washing and glazing, because they are strong, strong pigments.
I've played with them sometimes in the past, and with practice and skill they are an offensive weapon .
Remember that practice and familiarity are still the true keys. Become confident and establish a personal style that you like and to hell with the rest. There is no 'industry standard' for artistic styles despite what some arseholes would have you believe.
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